#MOUNTINSPIREPEOPLE
REAL. WILD. FREE. When mountain guide Hans Wolfenstetter, a native of Reit im Winkl, talks about his climbing career, he also recounts the story of modern alpinism since the 1960s. His tales speak of the awakening of a young generation, extensive journeys into remote regions, and a return to elemental values.
Looking back, the question often arises: “What if…?”
What would have happened if Hans Wolfenstetter hadn't grown up in a family deeply rooted in nature and mountain sports? What would have happened if his mentors hadn't taken him on high-alpine tours and alpine climbing in the Wilder Kaiser when he was just a teenager? And what would have happened if he hadn't met like-minded souls in the Alpine Club who shared his passion for alpine adventures?
Yet things unfolded as they were meant to—or perhaps had to—and Hans was able to discover his deep love for the mountains early on. With raw determination and great drive, he quickly earned the respect and recognition of his first climbing partners. Today, he regards the climbing generation of Reit im Winkl that came before him as his mentors. They took the young newcomer under their wing, shaping him over the years into a true alpine all-rounder. Qualifying as a certified mountain guide in his early twenties was an impressive testament to his burgeoning expertise. With numerous successful ascents of classic climbing routes in the Eastern Alps under his belt, the time had come to journey into the remote, uncharted corners of the world.
A 6,000-metre expedition to South America in his early twenties, an Ama Dablam expedition, Kyrgyzstan, and ski touring in Iran… Throughout his travels, mountaineering remained the true anchor. The pure preparation—from initial planning to the trek into base camp—is an essential part of any expedition for Hans. Time spent on the mountain is the crowning finale and the reward for weeks and months of meticulous organisation.
“I had set 2:00 PM as my strict turnaround time for the summit push. Despite the onset of snowfall, I kept climbing; the weather had behaved similarly on previous days and I knew it would just be a brief shower. In the end, at precisely 2:00 PM, I stood alone on the summit of Ama Dablam, with Mount Everest right before me and the other 8,000-metre giants all around. That quietude and that truly special moment are things I still carry within me every time I step into the mountains.”
Hans always journeyed to distant lands and remote wildernesses alongside like-minded companions he met while climbing back home. The ascents on the crags and peaks around Reit im Winkl and across the Eastern Alps were always far more than just training runs. On many weekends, the summits of the Wilder Kaiser turned into genuine gathering hubs for the growing climbing community of Reit im Winkl. This close-knit fellowship of young alpinists was the launchpad for wild mountain adventures, and many a lively evening in the mountain huts was where these dreams were born. The experiences gathered during his travels shaped Hans in countless ways. On the one hand, he drew energy and vitality for everyday life from these mountain memories. On the other, the trained carpenter was captivated by the local people in these countries and their craft with raw wood. Thus, his woodwork is also a pure reflection of his mountain journeys—truly ALPINE.
Quo Vadis?
As a mountain guide, Hans began leading his first clients at a time when modern technical aids were few and far between. Perhaps that is why, to this day, he possesses an instinctive, finely tuned feel for the weather and elemental conditions.
“We live from nature, in nature, and with nature. For me as a mountain guide, the responsibility for the safety of my clients and climbing companions is always paramount. That's precisely why keeping a watchful eye on the sky, the snow, and the rock is second nature out on the trail.”
Naturally, over his decades as a mountain guide and member of the Reit im Winkl Mountain Rescue, Hans was also fortunate to always return home safely from the peaks. Yet with every close call and every minor misstep, he matured—both as a mountaineer and as a human being.
Hans has no shortage of ideas and plans for the future, and these days he is often out on the trail with his grandchildren. The next generation of young mountaineers is rising, now guided by Hans as their mentor. Meanwhile, his gaze still wanders toward bigger adventures that sit high on his bucket list. We wish Hans plenty of time and countless unforgettable moments for these goals and for his journeys with his family.
His wish for the next generation: Never lose your reverence and humility before the mountain. He grew up in an era when one only ventured onto demanding alpine routes after years of steady mountain craft. This natural path of maturation should never be rushed today, lest one takes on too much risk too soon.
#mountinspirepeople
A few impressions of Hans Wolfenstetter in the mountains